by Nathalie Azoulai
While the Paris Fashion Week is going on, while fashion people's main concern is to show off, and on and on, one single fashion big star led his whole career according to one single motto: to remain hidden no matter the glory, the social pressure etc. In the 80s, Belgian anti-fashion designer Martin Margiela invented new fashion standards made of white numbers, veiled figures wearing garments with no tags, no logos, advocating some ghost-like anonymous humanity. Above all, he introduced techniques with a lasting impact on everything from streetwear to haute couture. While the whole system was longing for stardom, luxury and spotlights, Margiela kept hiding away from cameras till this very image slipped from his watch, in 1989, while he was 32, one year after he founded Maison Margiela. Very few others slipped in the following years as if to confirm the existence of " a man of substance in a world of appearance".