n°132/ St. Phoebe

August 2014


by Nathalie Azoulai


When women become fashion designers they usually import tailoring and fabrics from male fashion. See Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo or the current queen Phoebe Philo. It's been five years since she was chosen as the creative director for the French house Céline where she's doing such a good job that everybody wants to copy her style. The press-shy designer gives very few interviews but we know that she grew up as a tomboy and that she hates a sexualized femininity. Instead, she loves large and stiff clothes. A Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design old teacher of hers even stated, "we used to try everything, every matter then, even wood, and she thought it would be nice for a woman to wear wood." She's undoubtedly a talented feminist designer but does she really have to drive herself into suspicious demagoguery saying "what I really do believe is that anybody – and it really doesn't matter what shape your body is – can be seductive and sexy and gorgeous and beautiful"?


 Phoebe Philo