by Nathalie Azoulai
If Chanel is pearls and tweed, Dior New Look full skirts, but to most people, Balenciaga brings up nothing more than a vague loose black dress. The first reclusive fashion designer, before Rei Kawakubo or Martin Margiella, Cristobal Balenciaga did not help much to communicate about himself or his brand. A shame for a designer who influenced Azzedine Alaïa, Comme des Garçons, Gareth Pugh and Molly Goddard. A challenge for the viewer to understand the amount of work and of genius that stands inside every single dress X-ray representations will enlighten. Both in Paris Bourdelle till July 16 and London V&A till February 18.